Only problem is they wouldn’t let us in! Thats right, we couldn’t get in because we didn’t have the key.

Today we went for a walk in Gramercy an upscale neighbourhood that borders on the east side of Chelsea. Gramercy is located east of 5th Ave, and below 22nd Ave, just a 10 minute walk from our apartment. Gramercy is the english perversion of the Dutch krom moersje or “crooked swamp” which was an apt description of the area in the colonial era of New York and not the Gramercy – “grant us mercy” found in Shakespeare. It was developed by Samuel Ruggles as an enclave for the weathly and the park was to be a private enclave where access to the park would blolster property values. He purchased the land in the 1830s but it was not until the 1840s when indoor plumbing arrived in the area that it became desirable.

The centrepiece of Gramercy is Gramercy Park, and the only remaining private park in New York. The houses surrounding the park are some of the most spectacular we have seen in New York. The 60 properties surrounding the park own the park, pay for its upkeep and have exclusive access. A board of lifetime trustees govern the park and access is by key which is changed annually to maintain exclusivity. A sign at the entrances restricts access by children at the insistence of the donor. All most New Yorkers can do is buy lunch at a local deli or restaurant and find a place on the sidewalk outside the park to spread their blankets and have a picnic.

Ruggles developed the Gramercy area after the grid street system for Manhattan above Houston St was approved. Ruggles created the current Lexington Avenue north of the park and Irving Place to the south. These were the first avenues added to the new street system. Irving Place is named after Washington Irving, the famous American writer, while Lexington is named after the first battle of the American Revolution.

Facing the park are some very spectacular buildings on tree-lined streets. At 4 Gramercy Park West is the home of former mayor James Harper, marked with twin lamps at the entrance. Harper is better known as the founder of Harper & Bros, publishers of the social and political magazine Harpers. At 15 Gramercy Park South is the home of Samuel J. Tilden, a former Governer of New York who actually won the 1876 presidential election only to have it stolen from him by an election fraud. Today the house is home to the National Arts Club. Next door is the former home of Edwin Booth – recognize that surname? – who was a famous tragic actor of his day. However, his fame was eclipsed in 1865 when his brother – John Wilkes Booth – assasinated Abraham Lincoln.

South of the park is Pete’s Tavern, an eclectic bar and restaurant that is one of the longest continuously operating bars in the US, opening in the 1850s. Even during Prohibition, it continued to operate as a flower shop. Those “in the know” walked through the flower cooler into the bar beyond. O. Henry was a regular there – his booth is still marked – and it is suggested he wrote his most famous piece, The Gift of the Magi here, likely after imbibbing a little. Pictures of celebrites adorn the place. We stopped and enjoyed a glass of wine.

Further south on Irving Place – at 17th Street – is a there is a small house emblazened with a plaque proclaiming it as the home of Washington Irving, the famous American author of The Legend of Sleepy Hollow – the story of the headless horseman – and Rip Van Winkle. Ruggles named Irving Place after Irving but he never actually lived here. Only the need of later generations to forge a physical connection to the author led to adoption of this house has his home.

A final notable home in Gramercy is at 28 East 29th Ave. The only US President born and raised in New New York – Theodore Roosevelt – lived here from 1858 to 1872.

Despite its historical significance and the obvious wealth of the area, Gramercy is a beautiful neighbourhood, full of great little bars and restaurants on the side streets and larger upscale ones – especially on Park Drive. The people are an interesting mix of long term residents – many quite elderly – and younger upscale boomers. On the weekends they dress up and sit in the restaurants in the afternoon talking. It is like their one opportunity to let loose and socialize and they make the best of it. At 730 on Sunday nite they decend on the restaurants for the last gasp of “weekend”. By 9 they have departed, home to get ready for another week at the office.

We will definitely be spending some Sundays in Gramercy before our time here is done.